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| building my first acoustic, side thickness question http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10122&t=51315 |
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| Author: | SgtGeppetto [ Fri Dec 07, 2018 12:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | building my first acoustic, side thickness question |
Hello all! I "started" my acoustic build over a year ago and progress has been very very slow. I convinced my self I needed to build my thickness sander first, and I finally finished that, so I am ready to get my sides thicknessed down to size. but I am not exactly sure what size I should shoot for. I am building the J200 from Georgia luthier supply plans. I am using curly/flamed maple for the back and sides. I understand curly maple can be tricky to bend, but I am going to do my best, I was just hoping to get your advice on what thickness would be appropriate. Thanks! |
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| Author: | Dave Livermore [ Fri Dec 07, 2018 5:23 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: building my first acoustic, side thickness question |
start at 90. Flex. If not flopppy, take a little more off. Most sides land between 85 and 90. Any less and you risk... well lots. Any more and you risk...lots as well. Bend a few dummy sets before you go for the money wood. Good luck, Keep the questions coming |
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| Author: | Rodger Knox [ Fri Dec 07, 2018 5:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: building my first acoustic, side thickness question |
The thinner you go, the easier the sides will bend. The jumbo I built with mesquite B&S had sides less than 0.07" thick. I wouldn't go much thinner than that on purpose, but I have used sides that came out a little thinner than that on a much smaller guitar. I think .075" to 0.085" is pretty typical. |
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| Author: | Haans [ Fri Dec 07, 2018 5:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: building my first acoustic, side thickness question |
Depends on the type of maple and stiffness within the species. When I was building mandolins, I would look for most quartered red maple and pick the softest out for ribs. Red or Euro is the best way to go, but if you have that bubbly big leaf, you're stuck. If it is flamed, it can get problematic. Bending on a hot pipe, maybe .080" on high heat (be prepared for burns), if by blanket, a little thinner and again high heat depending on shape. Obviously, dread-nots are much easier to bend than parlors. Highly flamed maple is more difficult. |
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